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Restaurant Review: Italian grill offers comfort food at a good price Wednesday, December 31, 2003 By JENNIFER MASTROIANNI Repository food writer MINERVA —— Some say the heyday of this village was 150 years ago, when the Pennock brothers turned the town into a bustling railroad hub with their invention of the first steel railway flat car in the United States.
Things haven’t been the same since, some folks say, even claiming the community is, well, a bit behind the times.
I’d have to agree, but only judging by the prices at Mezzaluna’s Italian Grill at 301 W. Lincoln Way.
Housed in a spacious, wood-bedecked Victorian home, Mezzaluna’s offers a large variety of homemade Italian comfort foods, plus steaks, chops and the best dessert list I’ve come across in a while.
And I couldn’t believe the prices! How refreshing to not feel robbed by the bill at the end of the evening.
A group of six gals visited on a Friday evening and we were completely delighted by the experience. In a group our size, chances are at least one person is going to not love something. Not so. We all raved about everything, from the chewy Italian bread and garlicky dipping oil to the rich pasta sauce to the bakery fresh pies with flaky homemade crust. We couldn’t believe the portions for the price, and were amazed at the distinguishable quality of the food.
I ordered the Mezzaluna Sampler featuring three of the eatery’s most popular items: Lasagna, chicken Parmesan and fettuccini Alfredo. Let me just say, I’m still full. The plate was heaped with the three items, so much so that I ate what I could and took half home. Like many folks, I like my spaghetti sauce a certain way. Some people like it sweet, others prefer spicy, some go for smooth, others chunky. Somehow, Mezzaluna’s has created a magical sauce that combines all of the above, and seems to satisfy everyone.
With this sauce as an integral ingredient, the dishes have a firm flavor foundation. The lasagna noodles were cooked perfectly, and the layers of cheese and meat weren’t too thick or overloaded. I’ve never been a huge fan of fried chicken parmesan, but I am after sampling Mezzaluna’s. The tender chicken had a crispy coating, which was pleasant juxtaposition to the blanket of soft, melted Mozzarella and topping of sauce. I also was impressed with the homemade alfredo sauce, which can easily get gloppy and sticky. Mezzaluna’s was a delicate and creamy blend of butter, fresh garlic and good quality Parmesan cheese. The pasta Alfredo entree is $8.75, and you can add chicken or shrimp for an extra $2. It is the most popular dish on the menu.
My dinner, which included fresh bread and dipping oil, and a large, crisp house salad with buttery homemade croutons, was $11.50. Other than a 12-ounce New York strip steak at $14.95, this pasta entree is the most expensive item on the menu.
For a place that features pasta, Mezzaluna’s also does a great job with fish. The super-moist baked salmon filet drizzled in dill butter was exceptional. It was $9.50 and came with a side of spaghetti, bread and salad.
With colorful stained glass, grapevine-festooned trellises and wine bottle border, the historic home has been transformed into an Italian-style veranda. It’s not exactly authentic, but it works. The burnished woodwork and thick moldings glow in the softly lit rooms, creating a relaxing ambiance that is comfortable whether you’re on a romantic date, with a group of ladies, or a family night out with the kids. Deeply colored paisley window treatments and white linens add a nice touch of elegance to the decor.
The eatery was formerly Pleasant Days Inn, owned by Sue and Charlie Koontz. The couple sold the restaurant and bought it back last January. They changed the name and menu and went into partnership with their daughter and her husband, Jennifer and Joe Spoonemore. Sue does all the cooking, and employs a scratch baker to make all the desserts.
When not nursing at Aultman and Children’s hospitals, Jennifer, 27, is hostesses and waits tables at the eatery. Joe, 28, who works in the shipping department at the Timken Co., works in the kitchen.
Mezzaluna’s dessert menu is amazing. About 10 items are offered, all made from scratch, including the pie crusts. We sampled several, and swooned over the Kentucky Bourbon pecan pie with chocolate chips, the moist and fragrant pumpkin roll and the monstrous wedge of creamy chocolate peanut butter pie that honestly had to weight a full pound. Most desserts are under $3.
After returning from the restroom, my friend quipped: “I’m thinking that handicap rail in the bathroom isn’t for people who are handicapped, it’s for people who have eaten too much of that pie!”
Hours are from 4 to 9 p.m. on Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Friday, 4 to 10 p.m. on Saturday and 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Sunday. The phone number is (330) 868-4100.
You can reach Repository writer Jennifer Mastroianni at (330) 580-8304 or e-mail:
jennifer.mastroianni@cantonrep.com
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